Growing Potatoes

For me potatoes are the backbone of the vegetable garden. You get them in relatively early and apart from some earthing up and keeping an eye out for blight there is very little to do. They break up the soil nicely for the following crop and should provide an excellent yield from a relatively small space. There is also something so exciting about turning the soil at harvest time to see what you’ve got. I must admit to being a bit of a klutz here and manage to stab nearly every one with the prongs of my fork….

One thing I struggled to understand when I started growing was the different potato groups, first earlies, second earlies, I mean what’s all that about? Well it’s quite simple really and refers to the amount of time the potato takes to mature:

  • First earlies – 90 days.
    Plant mid march. Harvest late June/July
    Recommended Variety: Homeguard, Duke of York.
  • Second earlies – 110 days.
    Plant early April. Harvest July
    Recommended Variety: Orla
  • Maincrop – 135 days.
    Plant mid to late April. Harvest October onwards.
    Recommended Variety: Setanta.
  • Late Maincrop – 160 days.
    Plant mid to late April. Harvest October onwards.
    Recommended Variety: Sarpo Mira

If you are a beginner I’d highly recommend you stick to the earlies as they take less space and will provide you with a quicker crop. You’re also likely to avoid the disease potato blight for the reasons I’ll explain now:

Avoiding Blight.
Blight is an air borne disease which is at its worst in the more humid weather of July and August. Organically there is really no way to treat it and it is highly likely to occur in Ireland. There are 2 main ways the organic gardener can cope with the problem which is based more on avoiding rather than treating the disease.

  1. Stick to the early varieties as they will be ready to harvest before the worst of the blight hits. You may still get a small amount but this can be controlled by removing any diseased leaves or stems. Most of the growth will have taken place before this happens.
  2. Grow blight resistant varieties. We now have an excellent choice of blight resistant potato varieties. They are not completely immune to attack but will stay healthy for longer and won’t suffer as badly. If you have a serious blight problem you should remove the foliage down to 2in from the ground. This will stop the growth of the tubers but with a blight resistant strain you should have the majority of the growth done before this happens.

Chitting Potatoes
Chitting is leaving the seed potato exposed to light for 4 to 6 weeks causing it to produce sprouts. There isn’t really much point in chitting maincrop varieties but it’s recommended with earlies to give you a head start on the season. A chitted early potato can be ready to harvest over a month earlier than an unsprouted one so you can easily see the benefit there.

What to do?
A potato has a blunt end with a number of small depressions or ‘eyes’. Place the potatoes in egg boxes on a windowsill with the ‘eyes’ facing upwards for 4-6 weeks until they start to form small shoots. They are ready to plant when the shoots are about 1.5 to 2cm long. You don’t want the shoots to get too long or they are likely to snap off when you plant the potato.

Planting Potatoes
Planting in ridges is recommended as it makes them much easier to earth up. Ridges are rows of mounded soil, here’s a photo of our potato beds in the Quickcrop garden.
Plant the potato 10 to 15cm deep into good fertile soil. It is traditional to plant with the side with most ‘eyes’ or little shoots facing up. In our experience this makes little or no difference.
Earlies: 25cm between plants, 50 cm between rows.
Maincrop: 35cm between plants, 75cm between rows.

Crop Care
Earthing up
Earthing up means dragging the surrounding soil up around the growing shoots of the potato. It might feel odd to cover the new growth but it has a number of benefits:

  • If you’ve planted early potatoes keep an eye out for frost as the early shoots can easily be damaged, earth up to protect.
  • As potatoes grow they will push up though the soil and become exposed to light tuning them green. Green potatoes are poisonous (the potato and tomato are both members of the deadly nightshade family!) so obviously we ant to avoid this.
  • A good amount of soil covering the potatoes make it less likely blight spores will wash down and effect the tubers.
  • Weeds are kept down and it is also thought to increase the yield.

Apart from frost protection you should earth up when the plant is approx 20cm high.

You are unlikely to get blight before July so you should be fine with the early varieties.

You will notice blight on the leaves first and if the attack isn’t too severe you can just remove the affected leaves. If the problem persists you will need to remove all the foliage as already mentioned. Don’t dig up the potatoes at this stage as the tubers need to form a thicker skin or ‘cure’. It’s advisable to wait at least 3 weeks before digging a crop effected by blight to avoid infecting the tubers.

Foliar and tuber blight resistance
Blight attacks the leaves of your potato plant first and, if left unchecked will travel down and infect your tubers. Blight resistance in potatoes can refer to the leaves (foliar) or the tuber (the potato under the ground)  but most people tend to think of foliar resistance only. A potato with mid range foliar but high tuber resistance means the plant may be infected to such a degree above the ground that the foliage needs to be removed but the crop underground will be unaffected and should store perfectly well.

The British Potato Variety Database
The British potato variety database is a handy online site which gives you information on most varieties you’re likely to encounter as a home grower. It’s not the most fabulous looking site in the world but the information is excellent and gives foliar and tuber blight resistance and well as resistance to other pests and diseases like common scab or eelworm. A very handy tool when you’re deciding what varieties to grow.

Many books will tell you to wait till the plant flowers before you harvest but some varieties, like Orla, don’t flower at all in some years. See harvesting times above.

Early varieties should be harvested as you need them because they don’t store well. There is nothing nicer than a freshly dug new potato, get ’em out of the ground and into the pot!

Maincrop varieties can remain in the ground over winter unless you have a wet garden or a high slug population. I think it’s safer to dig and store, especially in Ireland. Store in boxes of sand or hessian potato bags in a cool frost free shed. Check periodically for any signs of rot and remove affected tubers.

It’s important you harvest all the potatoes as volunteers (last years potatoes) can act as a blight store and will interfere with your crop rotation plan.

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22 Responses to Growing Potatoes

  1. dave O'Brien says:

    Great email guys. Tells me everything I need to know about my spuds!

  2. sinéad says:

    thanks so much, am new to this and found your article really easy to follow. loads of useful info!

  3. Pat Nolan says:

    How often should I water my potatoes as have them in round grow bags should I water all the time or very little . I am a first time grower of potateos

  4. mary McIntyre says:

    Hi I’ve just dug up my Roosters (09/08/2016) It was probably a little premature, but nonetheless, I have a great crop. Now, what do I do???? The skins are great! not flaky, not wet, just perfect. So, I googled ‘curing and storing potatoes’ and I get all this info about curing them in a dark place with high humidity levels and I had planned to shove them in a box and put them under the stairs (quite hot in there) for a couple of weeks. After said time, I had planned to bury them in sand in a plastic storage container and put them in the garage. Help!!! what should I do. The spuds are in great nick.

    • Andrew says:

      Hi Mary.
      Congratulations on your rooster crop, they sound excellent. You need to store your potatoes in a cool, dry place and exclude all light. Warmth will cause them to sprout and light will make them go green and poisonous. I store mine in hessian potato sacks covered with an old dust sheet and leave them in my garage. I don’t bother storing them in sand as they don’t loose moisture in the same way as beets and carrots do but if you don’t have too many that is the Rolls Royce of treatments and they will keep the longest. I tend to have 6 or more 25kg sacks so the sand option is not really practical for me.

      I hope this helps.


  5. Jean says:

    Hi when can I plant potatoes so I have them ready to Easter for Easter , as this my first time , -I be planting in a potato bag , thanks

    • Andrew says:

      Hi Jean. I am afraid unless you have a polytunnel you won’t be able to plant potatoes for an Easter harvest and even then you will be a bit late. Potatoes are planted in March for a Summer or Autumn harvest depending on if they are early or maincrop varieties. You can also plant potatoes in late Summer for a Christmas crop but Easter crops will only be possible grown indoors and planted in January. I hope this helps. Andrew

  6. As usual great info….I am in love with your website 🙂 I am following you since “Dragon’s den”….A long road your small pack of spuds,perfect for trying to grow a new variety.

    • Andrew says:

      Hi Mieszko

      Thank you for getting in touch, I am very happy you are finding our information useful. Yes, Dragon’s Den seems a long time ago, we are still not any closer to becoming millionaires but enjoying the journey to wherever we are going! Good to hear from you Mieszko, I hope you have a great growing season.

  7. Daniel Dineenu says:

    Got a potatoe garden….Sheltered & southfacing, sunny & close to the sea. Very rarely get frost so is it ok to plant out early seed potatoes now (Feb 16th)

    • Andrew says:

      Hi Daniel. You could plant early potatoes if the ground were warm enough but I doubt it is. If you have a thermometer you can check the temp which needs to be at least 7 degrees celcius. If you have the temperature go ahead but look out for frost, protect young shoots with fleece if forecast. Personally I don’t think its worth the trouble but I understand your itch to get going! Let me know if I can be of any more help. Andrew

  8. Dermot says:

    Just planted my sarpo mira so when do you think they will be ready !

  9. Paula O'Neill says:

    Hi can you tell me when you are supposed to stop earthing up? Or do you?

    • Andrew says:

      Hi Paula
      I am a bit of a lazy gardener to be honest and only tend to earth up once, twice at a push. The reason you do it is to slightly increase yield but more importantly to make sure the tubers near the surface are covered. Depending when you planted your potatoes I would not see the need for earthing up after the end of May.
      I hope this helps.

  10. Maria says:

    Hi I sowed early early potatoes at the end of January in a polytunnel the stalks are not very high and I don’t think theirs many potatoes under them ,when do we dig them.and why did they stop growing.

    • Andrew says:

      Hi Maria. Thank you for your question. You should be able to harvest early potatoes in the tunnel from early June onwards. A couple of questions for you so I can help: How deep is the soil in the tunnel? Were the potatoes kept well watered? Has the soil been fertilized or is it standard topsoil?

  11. Caroline O'Donnell says:

    Hi, I saw the reference above to growing spuds for harvesting at Christmas. What varieties would you recommend planting and when? I’m new to growing veggies so have missed growing them this year for a summer harvest. Also I’ve a small garden and only have 1 6x4ft raised timber box. Do spuds require a lot of room? Many thanks

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